The 2004 Bollinger R.D. Is The Champagne That Remembers Your Name

You've spent a small fortune on Champagne, I get it. You've done the big names, the famous curves, the usual suspects. But forget the toast you make for the crowd; this is the Champagne you pour for your soul. Bollinger R.D. 2004 isn't merely a vintage; it’s an intellectual flex, a magnificent, late-disgorged contradiction of richness and surgical freshness that reminds you why patience is the ultimate form of hedonism. This bottle has spent over a decade on its lees, locked away in the chalk cellars, evolving its complexity before being recently disgorged ("R.D.") and released with a kiss of Extra Brut dosage—just 3 grams per liter. It’s bold, it’s brilliant, and it’s the uncategorizable cuvée that Madame Bollinger dreamt up when the world wasn't ready for old Champagne. Trust me, if you’re still talking about the 2002, you need to uncork the 2004 and finally catch up.

The Nose: Stewed Fruit and Salty Chalk

Hold it up. It pours a brilliant, deep gold color. Now inhale. It’s an intoxicating blast of a patisserie and a quarry simultaneously. What hits you first is the sheer generosity of the year: abundant stewed and candied fruits, like tarte tatin, poached quince, and mirabelle plum. But then comes the complexity that only time on the lees can deliver: smoky hints, brioche and baked apple, hazelnut, and sweet spice. Give it a few minutes in a wide-bowled glass and watch it shapeshift, showing preserved orange, acacia blossom, and a clean, mineral-fresh note of crushed rocks and chalk. It’s rich, profound, yet always pinned down by that unmistakable Bollinger tension.

The Palate: The Laser of Freshness

First sip, and you get the point of the whole R.D. project: the contrast between age and youth. It is bone-dry and intense, an energetic mouthfeel that is simultaneously full and harmonious. You've got the grand generosity of cooked fruit, tarte tatin flavors, and hints of espresso, but the low dosage lets the magnificent balance shine through. The texture is often described as creamy yet crystalline. The racy energy of the 2004 vintage comes through, providing vibrant acidity that cuts through the richness like a laser. The finish is super long and majestic, echoing with salty persistence and a whisper of almond skin. This is not a fat Champagne; it’s a densely woven, firmly structured experience.

The Madness of the Long Lees-Time

The "R.D." philosophy—Recently Disgorged—was born from the grand vision of Madame Bollinger, who wanted to capture the contrast between the exceptional aromas of an old vintage and the freshness of a recently disgorged wine. This is the essence of the madness here:

• The Blend: 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Chardonnay, drawn from 16 crus, 88% of which are Grands Crus.
• The Barrel: Fermentation is conducted entirely in oak barrels—a signature Bollinger move that adds texture and depth.
• The Cork: Unlike most houses, Bollinger ages its vintage Champagne under natural cork (not crown capsule), which allows a slow, measured ingress of oxygen to work its magic over a decade or more.
• The Time: The wine spends an extremely long aging period on the lees—over four times longer than appellation regulations require. The standard release of the 2004 was disgorged around 2017-2018 after almost 13 years on the lees.

The 2004 vintage itself was a generous and dazzling year in Champagne, a classic vintage with beautiful ripeness and poised acidity. This means the structure is there to maintain its elegance and restraint alongside the powerful complexity.

The Pairing: Go Refined or Go Savage

This is a wine that demands to be served in a big-bowled stem (not a flute) to let those aromas truly unfold. Serve it at a cool but not freezing.

The Investment: Blue-Chip Brilliance

This isn't a speculative play; it’s a blue-chip asset. Bollinger R.D. is known for its legendary aging potential. While some recent tasting notes suggest an optimal window for drinking through 2028 or 2030, others place the peak from 2018–2034 or even 2018–2036 for the standard bottle. The house itself suggests its potential for aging is endless. The 2004 vintage is already showing beautifully and is expected to age gracefully for many more years, with the citrus vibrancy carrying its magnificent complexity long into the next decade.

Don't wait. The best Champagne is the one you open now, with a second bottle safely tucked away for your wiser, future self.