Lightning in a Golden Goblet: My Thrill Ride With 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet d’Auvenay
Dionysus reviews d’Auvenay’s 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet: pear, yuzu, flint, and electric acidity on a creamy frame. Fewer than a few hundred bottles exist; critics orbit perfection, prices soar, and cellar life runs 20+ years. Decant lightly, serve cool, prepare for divine disruption.

Ah, Puligny-Montrachet—where dawn’s first light whispers through limestone terraces like rumors after a bacchanal. It was on such a morning that I stumbled into Lalou Bize-Leroy’s hidden cellar, discovering the 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet d’Auvenay resting quietly, like a secret too precious to share. Mortals, if gentle Chardonnay is your speed, move along; this wine is bottled lightning—pure, unapologetic electricity cloaked in velvet. Ready for a shock of divine revelation? Then raise your chalice and prepare yourself—the gods don’t pour twice.
Visions in the Chalice
The liquid trembles pale gold with a platinum glint, like quince jam lit by moonlight. Bring it to your nose and—pow!—ripe Comice pear smashed on river stone. Swirl again: honeysuckle petals ride a sea-spray breeze, chased by a flirtatious curl of struck match. Linger, and yuzu zest, ginger dust, and saffron threads steal the encore. The bouquet shifts every breath, as if the wine’s performing its own lightning show.
When Silk Meets Thunder
First contact is pure satin: cream-slick texture that caresses before a jolt of electric acid slices through like a live wire. Flavors tumble in slow motion—lemon curd, salted hazelnut brittle, white-peach skin, and a whisper of oyster liquor that roars into crushed chalk and gunflint. Oak is a background hum, never a headline. Tannins? A rumor: gossamer fine yet holding everything taut. The finish lingers for full Wagnerian crescendos—brioche smoke, sea spray, and the after-rain scent of Puligny stone echo for minutes. Blink, and you’ll swear you taste static.
Backstage Confidential
Lalou Bize-Leroy nurses her postage-stamp parcel in Chevalier like a high-priestess trimming bonsai universes—every leaf counted, every berry judged. The entire vineyard coughs up scarcely a few hundred bottles in a good year, and 2014 wasn’t generous. Hail strafed the Côte de Beaune, yields cratered, nerves frayed. Then came a cool, limpid September—sun by day, chill by night—ripening the surviving fruit to a razor’s edge and locking in that mouth-watering voltage. Harvest at dawn, micro-vinification, barrels so discreet you’d swear they’re hollow. The result is limestone given voice; I’m merely the messenger.
Drinking Like a Deity
- Wake It Up: Decant 45 minutes—long enough to stretch, not enough to dull the snap.
- Goldilocks Temp: 52–55 °F (11–13 °C). Too cold and the choir goes mute; too warm and the high notes droop.
- Feast Pairings
- Butter-Poached Lobster dusted with fennel pollen—fat collides with lightning.
- Matsutake-Miso Risotto—earthy umami waltzing with mineral bass.
- Triple-Cream Brillat-Savarin drizzled in acacia honey—decadence meeting electric acid in a back-alley rendezvous.
Worth Its Weight in Ambrosia
Critics blushed, scribbled near-perfect numbers, then raided their own wallets. Secondary-market price tags already read like phone numbers, and supply is the stuff of rumors. Cellar this two decades if you must—those nervy acids will knit into velvet thunder by 2030 and hum long past 2040. But why wait? Life’s short; gods are immortal, you’re not.
Final Note
Pass on 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet d’Auvenay and spend eternity chasing echoes. I tasted living lightning tonight—if you’d rather brag about “value Chardonnay,” enjoy your mediocrity in peace. The rest of us will be busy levitating.